Veils of steam drift over Beppu, Japan's most famous - or infamous - hot-springs resort. Tourists flock here for the onsen (spas), sand baths, and steaming mud pools. Some love Beppu; some loathe it: The city has a reputation for cheap tourist attractions and tawdry nighlife, an image that tries to reverse as it builds a new 28-million-dollar convention center.